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Two messages below from two of my favourite people captures some deep insights of what went on day 16 as I arrived in the truly beautiful Mysore City. But before that –the day was so much more action packed. More and more people joined us at the starting point 16 kms from Mysore city.  Many farmers from all over Malnad who had joined me at different points and days of my walk were all back in full force.  I felt like my extended family had come to meet me and be with me.  I walked yet again in full force- Stepping-up.

Walking along the highway

As we raced along the dangerous high way with hundreds behind us we did make a compelling sight.  We managed to meet a load of school kids 4 km into the day’s walk and dashed only only to be stopped by a very annoyed man, after some discussion we were introduced to M. J Somashekar who is a friend of Dr Pradeep the president of KGF.  The hapless man had managed to arrange a full scale tent with all facilities and meal to die for in line with a marriage menu.  We squeezed in some time and ate happily but had to dash off.

Somashekar's impressive impromptu meal and tent

We were met just one kilometre before the venue by Mr Subbaih, the ex-president of KGF, now residing in Mysore.  He was kind enough to send out a full press memo with a message from his famous cine actress daughter.  We were also met by Rekha, a kannada film actress, with her children one of whom is a national junior table tennis champion.

So it went that we met another group of college students who had no idea about why or what we were doing.  A quick 101- and they cheered and joined us.  More than 200 of us congregated, all very much together and very keen to do the last stretch.  At that point I hit upon the idea of walking backwards for 500 meters to showcase the way our leaders have backed down and are pushing communities hard into suffering and loss through climate impact.  At last we reached the venue and you can read the story through Viva’s eyes below.

We travelled home by Tippu Express, which was a good train that took 2 hours to reach Bangalore. I was thrilled to meet my older sister Manjula and my brother-in-law Srinath who presented me with a lovely Garland.

Push being garlanded by his older sister Manjula

Also met with Vijeth, an active, energetic and solidly supportive young man who is studying law, he whisked me off to a park in Jayanagar!  Where I exchanged ideas and action with 20 young Bangalore citizens on what next and how to work together.  At the end of the day I rushed to meet my brother Krishna Raghavendra who was getting ready to return to the US.  He handed a couple of copies of his latest CD, Bhairavi-Behag and Beyond The Music.

Being the night of the 17th day, Sunday, I pondered over the last tumultuous 16 days and 540 kms walking in the Hills and plains of Karnataka. My sense of deep felt gratitude to the people of Malnad is eternal, I am thankful for their taking me to their homes with such love and care, to the amazing, and beyond words, support from the KGF leaders: Dr Pradeep and Mohan Kumar.  I have a deep sense of gratitude to Teertha Mallesh and the solid and ever present Uday,  also to Somashekar, to whom I sometimes was harsh when he did not capture a dynamic picture for my camera, but he was so kind and understanding.  Thanks to Shekar who drove the car that backed us up with water and everything that a large group needed as we walked and, to the quick like silver Chetan who always knew when I was down and out with thirst, and the amazing Hassan contingent who were always there when I was in somekind of trouble,  to Balu and Attikatte Jagannath who are two remarkable men and good friends, to Raje Gowda and friends for being there at the end, and to the lovely Nanda Beliappa.  More gratitude and thanks to: Appaih and the remarkable Kodavas who brought such energy, colour and connections, all the 30,000 or so people that I met, who extended instant drinks, food and great company, to all those women who took the challenge and walked, I can never do justice and convey my heart felt thanks and gratitude. To my team, here in Bangalore, the loveliest and most most supportive Viva and her leadership. The great duo, Heather and Kavi, still recovering from the extereme coorg hospitality and energy. To that great chum Joe Britto for all that he has done to make this walk so memorable.  My very near family, Uma my wife, so much she has sacrificed for me to do all these crazy things, and to my loving sons Ahir and Shyam and our daughter Nisha.  But also to my extended family of Bala Sunramanian and Indira, Visu Meera and Vrishin,  Ram and Reva and Sivakumar and his nest.

Much to reflect upon too:

• the super back up support from Viva and team he leadership
• the ground support-plans and resource delivery by KGF and their teams, it was truly a marvel the way the ground was prepared, the communications that they planned and delivered and all the massive logistics that was put in place, the media coverage that they were responsible for in the Malnad and Plains. They demonstrated what leadership is all about, what the meaning of running a federated and democratic process is and an organization with creative and forward thinking ability
• the truly stunning from the 1000 year old Suttur Mutt for the grand and very reflective finale. I will hopefully do a short reflections on all the above for our internal use.

Also I want to go on record to acknowledge Oxfam GB for supporting me in every which way to work with CSM the last year on externship and giving me the space to undertake this second walk in 2 Years.

Please read Viva and Malini’s messages below:

Re: Push did it! Re: The Hindu :Walk for the climate
Sent: Sunday, 11 December 2011, 13:29
Subject: Push did it! Re: The Hindu :Walk for the climate

Dear Viva,

Thank you for keeping us posted on all the latest developments – you’ve been brilliant, as have Heather and Kavya in keeping things up and current.

What a remarkable achievement and what a big-bang culmination to weeks of unstinting effort! You’re right about the credit that goes to KGF and their outstanding organising capacity and faith in Push and the walk initiative. Hugely impressive.

And as for you, PUSH – the man of the hour …

YOU’VE DONE IT! BRAVO!!!

What a phenomenon!

I’m sure there have been times over the past two weeks when you may have doubted you’d complete the walk in one piece.

You’ve not only accomplished an astonishing personal physical achievement, but raised awareness on climate change and fired the imagination of all those you have come into contact with. With your example they will surely think that anything is possible!

As Viva has said, you have done us all proud and made such a difference to the issue that we work on and care about.

THANK YOU, PUSH. I’m proud to be associated with you.

Now I hope you get some peace and quiet – and the food of your choice!

Love and hugs,

Malini

——————

From: Viva Kermani <viva@csmworld.org>

Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2011 12:31:03 +0530

To: everyone<everyone@csmworld.org>; Pushpanath Krishnamurthy<pushpanath@btinternet.com>

Subject: The Hindu :Walk for the climate

http://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-features/tp-districtplus/article2702438.ece

Folks,

We had a grand finale yesterday when Push ended his walk -  he ended at about 2.30 pm in the afternoon in Mysore – after covering a distance 540 kms, meeting 30,000 people (mostly small farmers), hundreds of school children, giving interviews, blogging everyday and being on the radio that is tuned into by 14 lak people !

KGF did a brilliant job from beginning to end – the end was as impressive as the beginning as was the entire walk.
The closing ceremony was well received

It was held at the JSS college for Women, they were the host for the evening – the college is run by a 1000 year old Mutt (monastery) the Suttur Mutt, which runs 300 educational institutions from Creche to Professional colleges   – without any government support – Colleges not only in Karnataka but other states- they also have schools for differently abled children
The Swamiji graced the occasion(along with some MPs and representative form the Karnatakas Farmers Assoc) – apparently the Swamiji  never goes to any function  – if at all – he stays no more than 15 minutes – he actually walked a little bit with Push and stayed through the  function – and spoke very well. This is the Push effect !

All those who walked with Push and supported were felicitated  – KGF made momentos and certificates   – every detail was thought through

I left Mysore at  6 am this morning with Dr Pradeep – and I am amazed how one person can impact 30,000 people and more in such a short time

Push- welcome back and it was good to see you arrived safe after the incredible walk you did !
Thank you for  choosing CSM

Viva Kermani

As we started the day Mohan and Sarita kindly prepared a lovely break fast for the small team of 6, all of whom were members from the Coorg team since the Hassan team had said goodbye the previous day. But Mohan joined us in the morning as we left Gonigappa.

We were first stopped by a youth group called Ayyappa Youth Group named after the God Ayyappa, where we also met with Thara Aiyamma who is a member of the coffee board.  She had come all the way from the headquarters and really appreciated the walk; one of them said that she will link us up with the Coffee Board for an event in Bangalore since I said that we strongly supported the Coffee Board in promoting coffee at the time of climate change.

We quickly proceeded to meeting of a few hundred pre-university students at the Ganesh temple in an important piece of forest, the area is a devara kadu or wood lot whose direct translation is ‘god’s place’, it is supported and maintained by community, and left as a sanctuary, untouched, for the trees and wildlife and for the god.  This is a very unique feature of Coorg of which they are reverential and proud about.

Ganesh from Gonigappa was keen to talk to me as he kept up with me.  As a small farmer and an ex-wrestler he shared the problems and challenges of the community and coffee land.  I enjoyed his company, his hospitality and eagerness endeared me.

We were in the Rajiv Gandhi National Park, this is where dozens of domesticated elephants stay, and chomping away freely all that is green.

As we walked along, the road was really bad.  Buses and lorries flashed by angrily honking at us and it was sunny and hot, a sign that we were crossing the upland and getting into the plains.  Slowly the vegetation changed and there were more crops and fewer trees.  The special perfume of the plains from the legume crop Avare filled our nostrils.  The golden yellow paddy glistened in the sun.

But the uneven surface and the hot sun got to all of us and we slowed down to have a bite.

Although tired, and both Uday and me were hurting, we managed to step up unlike our great leaders at Durban whose inaction enraged us as we pumped along.

We were suddenly stopped by two motor cyclists who said they were from local private school run by the villagers for the community and wanted to meet us.  It was getting late but the fact that they said they were following us on the radio and were keen won us over.

I had a great time with the kids, they laughed and enjoyed at my antics and we all felt energised.  We met farmers, women vegetable growers and general public, a family from Coorg stopped us to wish us well.

At the end of the day, I was exhausted and really down. I had some trouble with getting accommodation and missed the warmth, love, affection and support of Malnad community already.

But just one more day and MYSOOOOOORE.!

As we reached another milestone for the day my dear friend and inspiration Raje Gowda,  who is a passionate and committed farmer and activist joined us from Belur, Malnad.  He had organized a meeting at Hunsur.  Eaalier in the day we were stopped by a environmental activist from Save The Earth in Hunsur.  He was so sad that he could not get me to address his members.  We travelled back to Hunsur for the meeting to meet some of the most ardent and hardened activists, who all men!  The meeting went well as I explained the context, issues and action we are taking.  Only a few out of 50 people knew anything about climate change and almost none about Durban.  Even the most important national broadsheet seems to ignore the issue of climate change.

We learnt a lot during the walk through the plains, hearing stories of hope and dashed expectations due to the impact of climate change.  There has been so much loss and so little saved.  Hunsur is at the heart of the Tobacco growing area and at the foot hills of Malnad and the beginning of plains.  In the tobacco growing region for every kilogram of tobacco that is produced they burn 7kg of wood.   ITC (the leader in cigarettes in India) buys from them,  we must study this as Tobacco is most profitable!

The arrangements for Mysore have been made!  I will reach Mysore, my final destination, some what battered, bruised and in pain but reassured by the singular commitment of leaders of KGF, Dr Pradeep, Theertha mallesh and Uday, what a bunch they turned out to be.  More importantly the communities of farmers and households from across Western Gahts and in the plains of Mysore. They joined me in hundreds each day, some came back again and again, they wanted me to carry thier voice to Durban and strengthen the hands of the India team; to stand up and show leadership and be counted.

KGF support van

 I want to give a special thanks a million after today as we have completed 215 million steps and we have met more 30,000 people; we stepped it, stepped forward, and stepped up for real action and leadership,  Malnad, Karnataka Growers Federation (KGF) and students have shown what leadership is but playing to gallery and pettiness is what is shown by our leaders in Durban.  Shame on them.

The real decision is the one which will support adaptation and mitigation, India will join all the people who are vulnerable to climate impact but also share its commitment to other developing countries.

After a superb dinner of pandi curry and mutton which, after a deep sleep in cool Coorg, felt like it was swiftly followed by a delicious breakfast, we drove to the morning’s start point/last night’s stopping point to start the day’s walk. Heather and I had arrived the previous afternoon, travelling by Volvo bus from Bangalore to support Push in his walk and be a part of the climate justice action in Coorg.

The start was marked with the arrival of the KGF car with various members and a quickly dumping of our bags in one of the vehicles which had a big walk banner on its side! The walk was exhilarating, invigorating, rejuvenating and more! The air was so fresh it was almost delicious, with pepper and coffee plants on either side of the road and the cool wind on our faces, there could never be a more pleasing picture. Push being an extremely fast walker made some of us jog to keep up and in no time we reached Murnad where Push was welcomed like a hero.

A traditional Coorg reception awaited with great pomp and fireworks, a loud band and over 300 children gathered to listen to Pushpanath Krishnamurthy. He spoke to everyone stressing on the the climate issue, what global warming is doing to the coffee plants in the region of South India, India’s role at COP 17 in Durban and what had been happening at Durban itself, shouting slogans of ‘Chalo Durban’ resounded on the quiet lanes of Coorg bringing curious onlookers to witness the event, very quickly everyone was ready to move on and Push lead the march to the next town.

KGF members continued arriving in numbers, talking to all of us about the problems in their plantations, labour issues and even how wildlife like elephants are affecting and playing havoc on their paddy fields. They speak greatly of Push, admiring his stamina, courage and belief. Some of them have walked the entire 250 km with him, showing support from day one, everyone was showing great spirit and little exhaustion.

The people of Coorg are deeply troubled by the increase in temperature and unnatural amounts of rainfall in the region.  We heard often that there are new and inconsistent weather patterns affecting the region, until 2-3 years ago the plantations were fine, but with rainfall in November December harvest numbers are low and the risk of disease is great.

An organic planter pointed out that ‘The government needs to allow more varieties of trees to be grown, this enhances the diversity and yield of our crops’

From Murnad we reached another small town called Votinagandhi where Push was again garlanded, greeted by school children & teachers and addressed the crowd. Members of KGF spoke to the people and students about Push’s initiative, the coffee problems and the weather issues faced by rain and where their journey is headed next. Push addressed the women, many of whom are wives of KGF members, about the impact on poor women in the world due to climate issues and the importance of women participation in solutions. ‘Coffee is the second highest traded commodity after fossil fuel, imagine a world with no coffee’ he says.

With kilometres left to go to reach Gonikappal (the last stop of the day), we stopped for lunch, Push wolfed down his meal which is a delicious wild mango curry, chicken and rice and is back on the road not waiting for those still finishing their meal. His mission is to complete his walk bang on time.

Go Push Go!
Kavya Chandra – Kavya is CSM’s Media and Communication’s Officer and joined push on the walk on Weds 7th December.

IT seemed like the Coorg team had reserved the best for the last. Nanda Belliappa connected us to his cousin Mohan Madappa who was simply unstoppable.  He connected us to a foresty college that is doing some of the best research into climate change impact but also developing  an exciting on going policy-research on costing the contribution of coffee to ecology.

I will leave the morning report to Heather and Kavya, who came, who saw and who felt gobsmacked by the reception and discussions; the crowd and the noise including fireworks was unprecedented.  We also had bands and music accompany us more than once during the day.

My calf muscle was suddenly feeling ok, and I was energized by the numbers that were turning up and swamping me. It is difficult not to feel very important but managed to keep my feet firmly on the ground despite the garlands and tributes.

Yesterday’s walk was the longest we’ve done so far, in all we covered 43 kms.

It was such a joy to see a few hundred well turned out young women and men to receive me at the fringe of Gonikoppa, it was almost too much.  These young students that are pursuing degrees in forestry were so taken by my walk.  We scrambled to find a place to speak from, once found I spoke with heart on my sleeve.

The feeling of elation continued – the BBC did a story of the walk!  The return of Shreas (KGF web person) who following my ideas arranged a missed call campaign through mobile and SMS where by leaving a missed call on a particular phone number you could send a message to India’s leaders of “don’t miss your leadership call”.  There was a massive turn out, and at the end  of the day we had a solid and stunning meet at an international high school where despite long walk,  and my body crying for a coffee, and being unprepared for my entry and stunned by the clapping hundreds and inspite of a superlative welcome by the indomitable Prof Nanjunda- I carried the day with an emotional,passionate and heart felt speech- claps and standing ovation!

I stared at the raging bonfire at the end of the day at the lovely home of Mohan and Sarita, yet again the care, comfort, and warmth offered by the couple and their young son Chengappa made everything feel so good and right.

Push, Mohan and Sarit and family stand by the fire

I am ready for another long walk to the plains and on to reach Mysore, my destination, here I come!

Vijeth, son of Teertha Mallesh who has been my constant friend, supporter and guide, phoned, he wants me to do a talk to his class mates in Bangalore, I said A BIG YES AND WHY NOT.

To start the day we had to drive down to Bagamandla. The pain in my calf muscle is somewhat recovered from the medicine administered by Dr pradeep, who had looked very worried sbout me. He gave me a massage with an electric massager that he had brought before we set off.  We looked at news papers to see all of the coverage from the day before. The news coverage for this walk through the Western Ghats has been unprecedented.

I was thrilled to see Theerth Mallesh back- he is one of the two key leader of the growers movement who has helped me throughout the walk.  He along with my dear friend Uday said that my interview on broadcast from a radio station in Mysore was very good.  And as if to prove it we had calls from young people saying they they are looking forward to our arrival and will meet us at our final stop Mysore.  Theerth Mallesh gave me details of all the ground work he had done in Mysore, he never ceases to amaze me.  At that point I had call from my old friend Raje Gowda.

The day seemed to have an air of excitement, soon a team from Hassan district joined me – this group have already walked with me and it was good to see them again. Many more Coorg growers came along too.

I was given a quick 101 about the Kodava (Coorg area) and its distinct Ethinic community, the people are proud of its history and energetic about everything.  The region has produced many great sports people, extraordinary Generals and soldiers. Presently they are battling with what seems to be a massive debate with environmental claimants from outside about forest, many outside environmentalists wish to preserve the ecology of Kodagu but have not fully understood or acknowledged the ecological contribution of the growers and agriculturalists of the region; many of whom plant more trees than they will ever cut, depend on wildlife diversity and preserve many plants – this attitude is at the very soul of the community and the growers feel the views of ‘outside’ environmentalists are completely one sided.

The above seems to draw me and put me on spot- but I have been open and consistent that I come to the table as an anti-poverty activist concerned by the profound impact of climate on coffee growers and others.

As the day progessed and ended, after nearly 35kms, with a massive city centre traffic congested public meet.  Preceeded by the days nearly 5 major halts with hundreds in a solid school meet and other village halts. It was electric in terms of participation from school kids, and a group of Tribal women dressed in same colour sarees had walked long distance to meet me. I was moved to tears.

So much walked; so much reaching out public and media and bonds built with Coorg, Appaih the president of the Coorg branch of the KGF, and Nanda Belliappa have been with us right through and both look happy and relaxed, they have steered us through this hauntingly beautiful terrain with great steep climbs and sudden dipping and curving roads.

Heather and Kavya arrived in the afternoon, and with them I was able to not just download all of my images and videos but also share thoughts, feelings, memories and anecdotes.

We could not have asked for more in that we were simply blessed to be at the splendid home of Kavitha and Dinesh, I felt such warmth at their support and unconditional reception to all three of us.  They shared the story of their life over a sumptuous dinner and hospitality in their lovely home, it simply overwhelmed us all.

So I am up and ready for Day 13, which is the the last stretch of the Upland before we embark on to the vibrant plains of Karnataka, my heart is pounding and the excitement is building – I feel a deep sense of gratitude for all the support that I and all those with me have received from the Coorg KGF team and families.

My mind is so full of messages and images that have made their home in my heart and mind, sometimes as I put pen to paper it comes out as a bit of a jumble, so it was good that I could contact Viva and Heather and clarify my garbled write up. After 30kms walks and so many stops where I reach out to kids and adults – men and women in dozens and in some cases hundreds. In all I have reached out to over 20,000 people! So, as I said my body and soul while lifted in spirit is exhausted and it leaves me with a very scattered mind as I struggle with wires and switches and luck to try and write my posts, access the internet and get my cameras ready for the day ahead.

As the walk has progressed there are some issues that that have come up over and over again: procuring and retaining labour on coffee estates, menace by forest animals, dams and irrelevant afforestation and massive land clearance by the state to support luxury hotels which creates further conflicts with elephants and bison. In Coorg there is also the issue of land ownership regularisation amidst all of the climate devastation and disappearing birds and bees!

I insisted yesterday that I must get at least one piece of good news, and that happened in the town of Bagamandla! After much reflection and struggle Madhu Bopanna was able to tell me that the old Shiva Temple had been repaired and fully renovated, and 30 of were able to have a simple rice and sambar lunch at that same temple – for free!

Any way as I squeeze my brain- I recall the wonderful passionate TV, radio and print journalist,Vasanthi, who joined me with her brother and sister, Govind and chirpy Vidya, the three of them drove all the way from Bangalore! They joined us half way though day 10, it was so good to chat, share and be a bit proud (humbly). The day started in the lovely home of Shareen and her ever supportive husband where we were interviewed further by Vasanthi asked hard questions including why I am only partisan to coffee. I answered my best using the dark, unjust but yet alluring coffee story in Malnad. Lovely Shareen who can give a run for their money to any chef in the world for cooking the best Corgi and other delicacy narrated her insights including how her blinded grandma is to talk of the plantation and its health based on the buzz of the bee sound. Narrating and clarifying half way through the interview I broke down and cried when I was talking about Durban in action, when I recalled that Bapu Mahathma, who is my inspiration, was there scores of years ago in search of truth and justice –yet our leaders are so glibly avoiding it in the face of such climate inflicted pain, suffering and loss to millions of women and men, including a great threat to this breath taking and soul stirring land called Coorg.

More emotions at Bagmandla as the villagers narrated how one after the other, so called Eco warriors or BBC and others have cheated them; I have to speak out.

At last at the fountain head and the birthplace of the goddess Kaveri ; water springs for ever at the top of the steep mountain. To the left of the mountain, amidst the fog, the great Sea and the continent of Africa and Durban coast. I missed not having our family and Uma my wife here, also the CSM team not there but I was compensated by the addition of Dr Pradeep, a much healed Bro Uday, my newly gathered friends from the last spot and of course great energetic Nanda Beliappa and the inimitable Appaih.

So much more seen and so much more heard- I do hope the award winning Vasanthi will do a story for BBC World and others.

Ready for day 12, I’m struggling a bit with one burning calf muscle but my spirits are high as more friends from Hassan are coming and my back up, Heather and Kavya, will be here – yippie!